Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Keep your shirt on

Wadi Rum desert, Jordan: It's hot, very hot. My nipples are hard, as I had to refresh my chest with cold water (I don't know why I'm writing this). I know the deserts, my experience at the Moroccan Sahara (at the Erg Chebbi dunes) made me a tougher man, with a beduin-like strenght. Like the lizards, I can now stand the heat. My foot developed a sort of a protective layer, which allows me to walk bare foot on the burning sand. But what is bothering me is not the extremely high temperature that I'm now facing, it's the fact that I'm wearing a t-shirt and one week from now I'll be in Barcelona. Can you imagine going shirtless to the beach with a white-like-milk chest and taned arms (like a truck driver)? I couldn't jeopardize my tanning in the middle of the summer season, when Barcelona is packed.

But please don't judge me. I was long awaiting for some party time, as my last couple of visits were to Muslim or Hindu countries, with a very conservative approach towards drinking and flirting. The beduin responsible for our tent in the desert played us last night saying "want something to drink? whisky?", we know they don't drink. Me and other 5 people had to share a big plate wtih chicken and rice at dinner, no knifes and forks, just our hands. Some tea was served, as we contemplated the stars. The beduin kept asking me for advise on a couple of conversations that he was having on facebook with some past guests (yes, he was connected, right in the middle of the desert). He wasn't particularly fluent in english, so the conversations made no sense at all, like: "girl: how are you?; beduin: welcome to the desert!"; girl: thank you!; beduin: I'm a beduin!".

Sleeping in the desert can be very relaxing, you don't hear anything, except for the french couple in the tent nearby, who were making strange noises. The girl was kind of suffocating, it must be the dry, desertic weather. Overall, I had a good night's sleep, so I was ready for our early morning desert tour. But as the sun gained power, my tanning dilema began to concern me. Should I take my shirt off? We are in a Muslim country, but does the dress clode apply to the desert? I made a big effort to protect myself from the sun by staying inside our buggy. But sometimes we had to go down and walk around, after all, we were there to visit the desert.

Wadi Rum looks just like Mars (no, I've never been there, but I've seen pictures) with red sand and weird rocks. The place became famous to the West after British officer T. E. Lawrence lived there and played a key role during the Sinai and Palestine Campaign and the Arab Revolt against Ottoman Turkish rule of 1916–18. But you know, deserts can get very boring sometimes, so for that reason, he wrote a detailed account of the period and his life, published in the book "Seven Pillars of Wisdom". If you don't fancy reading books, maybe you have watched the movie based on him, "Lawrence of Arabia".

We are now at the top of a rock that the erosion from rain (it's rare, but it happens) and wind made it look like a bridge. It doesn't look safe here, this "bridge" is prehistoric and lacks a firm base, it can collapse at any time. But I don't care anymore, I'll take my shirt off and enjoy the sun.

The events that followed my decision to take my shirt off made me rethink my attitude. Another guide arrived with a group of girls at the same place I was sun tanning and rebuked my situation. I was surprised by him with my eyes shut, almost falling asleep right there under the sun. He began to say words in Arabic quite intensily, pointing to the girls and later to the sky. At fist, I was pretty sure he was suggesting something like "would you be so kind to put your shirt back on, please respect the mesdames ", until his pupils began to dilate and his moustache got spiky, clear signs of anger. Enough said, it was time to run away.

Some weeks after, I told this story to a Moroccan in Paris and he said, surprised with my boldness, "you are crazy - and lucky!". I felt bad for the desert situation for some time, as a tourist you have to respect the country's culture, no matter where you are (in the desert, for example). Lesson learned, but you know what? At least I was perfectly tanned when I got to Barcelona.

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